Out of Sight, Out of Mind Part 2

III. SOLUTIONS

1. Awareness

Although awareness regarding the dangers of fast fashion have risen, it is known that fast fashion is unlikely to fade out anytime soon. With more coverage and investigation regarding fast fashion manufacturing companies being carried out, the unethical production processes of fast fashion brands are rapidly being exposed in the media. In spite of the growing attention on the issue, however, the fast fashion industry is still projected to remain lucrative due to the low prices charged by these companies. Dr. Tracie Tung stated several benefits of fast fashion including how it “gives low-income families the opportunity to join fashion trends with less cost” (Chandler, 2021). Regardless of the growing campaigns, education programs, and advertisements against fast fashion, consumers, especially those in the low to middle income social classes, are inclined to return to fast fashion brands; a majority of consumers do not experience the luxury of considering the ethics of fast fashion. Consequently, ReAnin observed that the fast fashion industry is “expected to witness growth in developing economies.” According to ReAnin (2022), the net profit of Zara “doubled” in 2021, and the profit of Mango reached the company’s peak of the decade in 2021. Because of fast fashion’s accessibility and despite the increasing information about fast fashion, the possibility of fast fashion consumption declining any time soon remains low.

2. Thrifting

One of the shopping alternatives to fast fashion that has been popularized by social media is thrifting. Thrifting allows clothes to be in circulation for longer periods of time, meaning that these clothes do not get discarded as quickly as other pieces. This is because a second, third, fourth, and so on owner may use this piece after purchasing it from a thrift store (shopping second hand). Hence, this reduces the rate at which brand new clothing is consumed. Thrifting has become increasingly popular, as it has been reported that 40% of Gen Z in the United States were buying second hand in 2021 compared to the 30% in 2016 (Watson, 2021). The shopping method has even been endorsed by political figures, includng Marama Davidson, coleader of the Green Party and Minister of Family and Sexual Violence in New Zealand, who stated “The vast majority of my wardrobe is secondhand, op-shopped or locally sourced” (Roy, 2020).

Moreover, in the present day, thrifting is not only known as an alternative method of shopping, but, instead, a niche culture (curated thrifting) has been developed around it. What’s New thrift shop owner Teresa Mask promoted thrifting as a hobby, stating that she enjoyed thrifting due to the “thrill of the hunt” and “because of the fun of it” (Uwire text). A high school student from Springfield, Jakarta further explained that she enjoyed thrift because the clothes were “cheap” and appealed to her personal style. The culture has also expanded worldwide, even to Indonesia where multiple thrifting bazaars, such as the Slow Move Bazaar and 2000s Market, have opened up as recently as 2021-2022. Because of its probity, relevance, and affordability, the thrifting scene has flourished within the past few years.

However, thrifting is not necessarily a fault-free shopping method either. Oftentimes, consumers often have a false impression of thrifting. Though now, trending items are often found at thrift shops, especially curated thrift markets, the massive amount of clothing available in secondhand stores is a product of the numerous items of fast fashion that have been discarded; thrifting is a result of fast fashion because “Sporting these fat fashion brands, even if secondhand, gives others the idea to buy their own similar pair at fast fashion brands” (UWIRE), increasing the popularity of fast fashion products. Additionally, those who attend these thrift markets, the majority being teenagers and young individuals, regularly prioritize the trendiness and aesthetic of the products sold, rather than their durability. Ultimately, second hand garments become discarded within short periods of time, hence contradicting the purpose of slow move fashion. Because the longevity of clothing, such as the garments’ quality and pertinence, is rarely considered by thrifters, clothing sold in thrift bazaars is often unsustainable and does not remain in circulation for long.

Though it may appear as an ethical way to shop at first, thrifting still presents consequences on impoverished communities. Because there is an increase in demand for secondhand clothing, there is also a rise in prices for second hand clothing. A Jakartan high school student recalled her last experience to the Slow Move Bazaar as disappointing as prices “were so high. It was crazy.” This is disadvantageous especially to those with low income who shop at thrift stores for necessity rather than for enjoyment. As more and more curated thrift markets gain traction, she fears that “the prices are going to go up” with thrift bazaars, markets, and curated thrift shops becoming more prominent in the fashion scene. Another example of this issue has occurred in the secondhand store, Goodwill, where coats that sold for $8 in 2010 now sell for up to $40 (Chandler, 2021). Furthermore, the secondhand store has also changed its pricing system. According to Chandler, at first, clothes were sold using set prices, but now prices are frequently marked up after considerations in “quality, condition, and whether or not an item is considered higher end.” A 2019 study conducted by the US Census Bureau found that 11.9% of Hoosiers (citizens in Indiana, United States), including around 801,108 people who rely on thrift stores to purchase clothing, currently live in poverty (Chandler, 2021). Overall, a false sense of security is experienced by thrifters, as the “sustainability” of thrifting encourages their consumption of secondhand clothing but still reduces affordability of clothing for those with low income who actually depend on secondhand clothing.

IV. CONCLUSION

The research question posed in this paper questioned the extent to which fast fashion has impacted the ethicality of the general fashion industry that is accessible to the public. Evidence from studies regarding the increasing frequency of microtrends, cases such as the Forever 21 vs Puma case as well as the Rana Plaza event exhibit the expanse of the fast fashion industry’s consequences on both the consumption and production sides. However, in providing low prices of clothing, moral labor practices, including livable wages and safe working conditions for fast fashion workers, have been sacrificed. The massive volume of clothes produced is required in order to sustain the constantly increasing demand from consumers (whose clothing choices are largely dependent on the quickly changing microtrends of social media).

Furthermore, due to products in the fast fashion industry being based on the same trends on social media, the visual differences between products sold by various brands has become less noticeable. With every firm jumping on similar trends at similar times, businesses, such as Zara and H&M, end up featuring the same clothing styles, materials, and garments. In the same way, as the fast fashion industry becomes more and more lucrative, originality in the fashion world is becoming more threatened as well. With multiple high-end businesses' products, such as Puma’s Fenty shoe range, being duplicated and sold as fast fashion products, the ownership of clothing design, patterns, and ideas is being undermined. Despite the dangers presented by the growth of the fast fashion industry, there has still been an absence of necessary intervention by governments. With fashion brands being allowed to purposefully remain ambiguous in public reports (due to the unenforced soft law), brands fail to provide meaningful information regarding their supply chain, information that could open them up to criticism. Ultimately, fast fashion has been proven to encourage unethical consumption and production practices, emphasizing the reality of the “fashion paradox.”

Equally important, though it may appear to be a more ethical substitute for fast fashion, secondhand clothing does not act as a suitable substitute for purchasing garments. Particularly because a large proportion of thrifted products are fast fashion products, fast fashion products continue to be promoted every time the secondhand fast fashion item is used, hence still exposing others to fast fashion items. Also, due to the rise of thrifting culture, the prices of clothing in thrift stores and bazaars have risen, reaching prices that are unaffordable for those with low income.
Essentially, though thrifting may be perceived as an optimal solution to fast fashion, there is still a negative aftermath of secondhand shopping, an aftermath that is usually faced by poverty-stricken communities and is commonly ignored.

Though fast fashion may not be going out of style any time soon, improvement in the future of ethical fashion production still remains possible. Firstly, reinforced regulations placed by the government should be utilized in order to protect the working environment of fast fashion employees. An example of this is the Bangladesh Fire and Safety Accord which has been utilized to increase the security of manufacturing factories of H&M, UNIQLO, and others (Ross, 2021). Likewise, governments should reinforce minimum wage policies, specifically in developing countries where most fast fashion production occurs. A sterner imposition of the minimum wage policy may reduce the incentive for fast fashion firms to host their production there. Regarding consumption, fashion enthusiasts are now being encouraged to evolve their mindset about buying clothes. Prior to purchasing, customers should consider the longevity of the clothing item over its current “trendiness.” By contemplating these factors, consumers hence reduce the depletion of secondhand clothing. Still, this paper’s research faced several restrictions, including the limited student sample in the survey (absence of a balanced proportion of different ages and genders). Additionally, remarks given by respondents in short interviews may not represent the entire opinions of teenage thrift shoppers. Overall, though the chances of solving the fashion paradox may be bleak, it is hoped that these recommendations will be considered in the near future and appropriate action will be taken.

Reference List

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